"Chor Machaye Shor!" - my guide to the eclectic 'Thieves Market' in Bombay.

Thursday, April 14, 2011

I was reading somewhere that 'chor bazaar' (or, thieves market) in Bombay started about 150 years ago and was originally called 'shor bazaar' meaning a 'noisy market'. One would have hoped that things were quieter back then, but no such luck. Anyhow, then came the Brits who started mispronouncing 'shor' as 'chor'. Not only did the name stick, it must have also triggered new business ideas as stolen goods started making their way into the market, allowing it to live up to it's name!

Thankfully all that has changed (except the noise of course) and now it is simply India's largest flea market, offering a fascinating collection of antiques and vintage items. I am no authority on antiques but some stuff out there is so bizarre that there's no way anyone could have thought of them today! That said, you do have to look out for the occasional con job. It can be overwhelming for a first timer, but you can be rest assured that there are some absolute treasures buried in those deep, dark alleys.

It is one of my favourite markets and I never come away empty handed from there. So I highly recommend it to those of you who haven't had the pleasure of going there yet. In case you need a few pointers, here they are...

Tip No.1: Leave your watch at home. If you are planning a quick trip, let me assure you that you will miss out on the best of the stuff this place has to offer. You need at least half a day if you are like me, and want to leave no object untouched!

Tip No.2: Go with a friend, but choose wisely. Don't go along with people who do not enjoy peaking into cubbyholes and walking around endlessly in the dust and heat. If you yourself are that sort, may I recommend staying home with a glass of wine instead? If you're going with the husband, then I feel sorry for you.

Tip No.3: Look once, look twice, and then look again. The shops are stashed up to the ceiling and you will never be able to take in everything in one glace. There's always more than what the eye can see!

Tip No.4: Just because something looks like shit at first, does not mean that it cannot be turned into something priceless. If you like the basic form of it, just pull it out and observe it without the clutter around it. The shop keeper can always help restore it for you, at no extra cost, and it'll be as good as new or old, whichever way you prefer it.

Tip No.5: Ladies, cover up, it's a conservative area. You want to be able to go there and check out their wares, and not vice versa.

Tip No.6: Bargain like crazy. I've tried everything from claiming that I'm still in college and my parents give me no pocket money (unfortunately I think the time has come to abandon that one) to pulling my wallet out and emptying it's contents in front of the shopkeeper, begging for a discount (make sure no crisp notes come tumbling out at this moment).

So put on a comfy pair of shoes and get started. Here's a sneak peak from my last trip, to give you a sense of what to expect.

This is what a regular shop facade looks like...enter at your own risk! Just kidding ;)

Chairs stacked up against the wall...all they need is a good rub down and some cane weaving

These lights may seem a bit ostentatious, but look closely and you will find a treasure or two

An old picnic basket. The lining is a bit frayed, but 'original' as the shopkeeper claims.

Get one of these for your study to file away those loose papers. Or just use it to keep knick-knacks/ craft items.